Esk Valley show Kiwi fruit
New Zealand vineyard
THE Esk Valley Estate winery is situated among steeply terrace vineyards in the Hawkes Bay region in on New Zealand’s North Island.
Established by Englishman Robert Bird in 1933 under the name Glenvale, it grew rapidly to become New Zealand‘s fifth largest winery.
In the Eighties it went into receivership and was acquired by Croatian- born George Fistonich, founder of Villa Maria Estate, whose wines this column has often praised.
Esk Valley is run separately as a boutique winery with its own winemaking team under Gordon Russell and its own vineyards, although it does also source grapes from contract growers.
I tasted five samples from their food-friendly Black Label range recently and was much impressed.
Tropical fruits
Chenin Blanc is not a varietal I associate with New Zealand, but it clearly has potential. Two vineyards, one inland at Moteo Pa, another on a warmer site in the Gimblett Gravels area, provide the grapes for Esk Valley Estate Chenin Blanc 2007.
Pale yellow/green in colour. Very aromatic nose reminiscent of melons, pineapple and tropical fruits. Full-bodied and balanced with a trace of residual sugar and a long crisp finish. £8.69.
Esk Valley may be the only Kiwi producers working with traditional Portuguese white variety Verdelho.
The soft, herby-scented Esk Valley HawkesBay Verdelho 2007 offers honey and minerality that is almost Alsace-like. £9.19. At 10.5 per cent ABV and with a little bottle age, Esk Valley HawkesBay Riesling 2005 is a lip-smacking light subtle treat with some residual sugar to balance the crisp acidity.
There is lots of lime and apple there. Worth laying down. I would expect it in time to become more complex with toast and honey coming through. £9.19.
Hint of sweetness
The North Island, particularly Gimblett Gravels, seems better suited than the rest of New Zealand to classic claret grapes – proved by EskValleyHawkesBay Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec 2006. I
t is over three-quarters merlot, producing a deep red wine with a ripe bouquet of berry fruits and spiciness from 12 months in oak barriques.
The cabernet sauvignon gives perfume and a hint of sweetness up front with extra weight and depth from the malbec. £10.19. It’s lovely stuff but was trumped by the silky, full-bodied Esk Valley Pinot Noir 2006.
It is asingle vineyard red from the cooler climate Keltern Vineyard. Hand-harvested, French oak-aged, it is fragrant and velvety with plums and black cherries dominating. Three or four years cellaring may be revelatory. Good value at £10.19.
The Riesling, Chenin Blanc and Pinot Noir (plus a Pinot Gris I haven’t tasted) are stocked by The Bottle Stop, Cheadle (0161 439 4904) and the entire Esk Valley Black Label range online from www.nzhouseofwine.co.uk and www.everywine.co.uk
Published: Mon, 22 September, 2008
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