Wines from Argentina and Chile
CEVICHE is a South American raw fish delicacy, made by salting the fish and ‘cooking’ it in citrus juices. It’s the preferred palate-freshening starter at the upmarket Gaucho steak chain before you get stuck into the main event, substantial cuts of Argentine beef.
Gaucho are always pressing chef Ryan Hattingh, built on substantial lines himself, to tutor ceviche masterclasses in the private dining room above the magisterial fur-festooned restaurant off Deansgate.
I joined in a bit blasé this latest time until a chillli infiltrated a cut on my finger. Consolation came from a chilled glass of Zuccardi Vida Organica Torrontes 2008, aromatic fruit salad in a glass with a rasp of acidity.
Jose Alberto Zuccardi, patriarch of this wine dynasty that stretches back to the 19th century, was on hand to enjoy our enjoyment of this under-rated Argentine speciality and a range of his wines, not all on the normal Gaucho list.
Voluptuous on the nose
Among the reds, I particularly liked his Q (for quality) series.
The Zuccardi Q Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 was voluptuous on the nose (cloves, vanilla, smoke) and on the palate (red and black fruits, vanilla). For stockists of this and the torrontes visit alliancewine.co.uk.
Lovelier still was the Zuccardi Q Malbec 2006, deep violet in colour with plum and tobacco and a lingering deep, plummy finish.
The price of the abbove is £51 a bottle in the restaurant, £24.50 if you buy direct from Gaucho’s retail arm, the Cavas de Gaucho (visit link right).
Spicy, dark fruit
Chile’s Errazuriz winery has been around for as long as Zuccardi in the Aconcagua Valley.
Cool, rainy winters, hot, dry summers and moist Pacific Ocean breezes plus the finest vine clones from France is the formula the sixth generation still follow.
Errazuriz La Cumbre 2005 spent a whopping 18 months in mainly French barrels, but it has a rare balance with bold soft tannins and oodles of spicy, dark fruit. One to lay down.
It costs £19.99 from Majestic and everywine.co.uk. At a mid-price level, the same winery's Estate Shiraz 2008 (Waitrose, Thresher’s, £7.99) and Max Reserva 2006, same stockists £9.99) are both great value.
Published: Wed, 20 May, 2009
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