Hanging Ditch masterclass is a grape revelation
WE are used to grape varieties that were once specific to a single country, even region, suddenly being elevated to internationally-grown status.
Viognier is a perfect example. Once the preserve of a small section of the Rhone valley, providing limited amounts of Condrieu and Chateau Grillet at huge prices, it now flaunts its aromatic and affordable charms across the New World with varying degrees of success.
The new rock and roll viognier? Perhaps albarino. The Spanish cult white from Galicia has now turned up in Australia as I discovered at a recent masterclass at Hanging Ditch wine merchants in the shadow of Manchester Cathedral
Refreshing acidity
Ben Llewellyn from innovative UK wine importer New Generation was showcasing seven wines from their portfolio, mall stocked by HD.
First up was Gemtree Moonstone Albarino 2008, possibly the first commercially available Australian release of an albarino. It won’t be the last on the evidence of this £20 beauty.
From the lovely tropical nose through to the gentle mouthfeel (mandarin oranges methinks with a swoosh of refreshing acidity) it hit the spot.
The fact that it hails from McLaren Vale, South Australia rather than the inletted coastline of Galicia’s Rias Baixas means that it is no dead ringer for the Spanish original… but that can sometimes disappoint.
Chocolate notes
Another Spanish invader of Oz turned up. Tempranillo, definitely a grape for the hot climate, is now being widely planted too. Gaucho Grill have a lovely liquoricey one in their Terruno range.
West Cape Howe Tempranillo 2007, from Western Australia (£13.50 at Hanging Ditch) offers more concentration, though. Slightly tawny in colour it is meaty with some chocolate notes from the oak.
Better value (at just £8) is the brambly, spicy William Robertson Shiraz 2006. Very shiraz in the crushed black pepper aromas and cloves. Oh yea, and there’s a ripe, vanilla-laden aftertaste.
Luscious fruit
More seductive still was fellow South African red the tongue-twisting Boekenhoutskloof Chocolate Block 2007. For £20 you get luscious fruit and texture… yes and chocolate flavours that are more than Valrhona then Bournville.
Shiraz, grenache, cinsault, cabernet sauvignon and viognier make up the blend and it gets 15 months in French oak, new and used.
One last fireside winter comfort red before we start thinking fragrant white for spring. Oh yes, that’s where we came in – the Aussie albarino!
At the Masterclass on Wednesday, April 1, from 7pm-9pm your chance to see how the Hanging Ditch team choose wines for the store. Taste a wide range of wines for just £10. Ring the number below to book.
Hanging Ditch wine merchants, Britannic Buildings, 42-44 Victoria Street, Manchester M3 1ST (0161 832 8222)
Published: Fri, 27 March, 2009
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