The real taste of Beaujolais
Nouveau - not always a vintage treat
SUNDAY marked this year’s arrival of Beaujolais Nouveau. OK, nowadays it seems as cutting edge as a new skiffle a record or a fondu set for Christmas. Nobody bothers any more, do they?
Yet only a few years ago we all waited, crystal goblet in hand, for the barely fermented grape juice to be rushed across the Channel by sporty types in fast cars.
In good years, from a good producer, it was the essence of gamay in a glass and offered seasonal cheer. In bad vintages, supermarket-hyped, you wondered why you bothered, especially when you were aware of what a wonderful wine “proper Beaujolais“ is.
Oozy soft cheese
Simple Beaujolais, properly fermented, is a simple treat. Beaujolais Villages is a step up - and any of the 10 varying Village crus, located to the north near the Macon region, is one of the most delicious wine tastes around.
Chill them, accompany with rustic bread, oozy soft cheese and some garlicky charcuterie and you’re in the French idea of heaven. The Beaujolais favourites are the ones that sound most idyllic - Chiroubles, Saint-Amour, Julienas and, of course, flowery Fleurie.
They all share the same enticing deep purple colour, fruity aroma and slap of acidity, the two Ms - Morgon and Moulin a Vent - being appropriately the ones most suitable for maturing over a year or five.
Best ever vintage
I’ve tasted an array of Beaujolais Crus from Majestic Wine Warehouses, from 2005 (considered the best ever vintage) to 2007, and was very impressed.
An easy drinking style made using the traditional carbonic maceration, Beaujolais Villages 2006 Domaine des Nugues (£7.99) is deep ruby in colour, smells of raspberries and spice and is very refreshing.
Brouilly 2006 Domaine des Maisons Neuves (£8.49), made using lower more concentrated yields and avoiding herbicides, is more intense, ripe and currently with great elegance.
The 2005 vintage is obvious in the cooperative made Chenas Cave du Chateau de Chenas (£8.49). Deep purple in colour, it reeks of cherries. Full-bodied, soft on the palate, it also possesses a refreshing acidity.
Les Michelons is a single vineyard in Moulin a Vent. The 2007 example sourced by Louis Latour has an interesting smokiness with an abundance of raspberry and strawberry and fruit. It has the spine to develop in the bottle over a number of years.
It costs £10.99, as does another Beaujolais “bruiser“ (it’s all relative!) - Morgon Cote du Py Vordier 2007. This is a product of old vines at what many believe is the best vineyard in Beaujolais. A juicy combination on the palate of black cherries and vanilla is reminiscent of Burgundy.
As far from the thin acidity of bargain basement Beaujolais Nouveau as it’s possible to get.
Published: Mon, 17 November, 2008
Comment on this article
You need to be logged in to comment. Login | Register