CityLife

Michael Caines at ABode

Assisette of pork 1 / 4 images

Michael Caines at Abode
City centre
December 2010

Overall: 4/5
Décor: 4/5, Service: 3/5, Food: 4/5

With mighty acclaim comes mighty expectation – something which restaurants now have to contend with more than ever, thanks to food’s resurgence in popular entertainment. 

The last decade has seen a steady demystifying of sourcing and standards, from Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s free-range chicken campaign, to Gordon Ramsay’s scrutiny of hospitality in Kitchen Nightmares.

Recently notable is Masterchef: The Professionals, in which Michel Roux Jnr’s fearsome sous chef Monica Galetti stares daggers at chefs with Michelin aspirations struggling to perfectly spatchcock a poussin.

Quality and precision, therefore, have become paramount in the minds of the dining public.

They are also assets synonymous with the name of Michael Caines MBE. The chef’s flagship restaurant at Devon hotel Gidleigh Park, already in possession of two Michelin stars, was recently voted Number One in The Sunday Times Top 100 Restaurants list.

Caines is responsible for all food and drink at Abode hotels; and opened Manchester’s version in 2008. Led by executive chef Ian Matfin – a star in his own right – the restaurant quickly earned a string of awards, including Restaurant Of The Year 2008 (Manchester Food And Drink Festival).

Abode wears its Michelin heritage on its sleeve, with inventive dishes, tasting menus and Caines’s trademark ‘grazing’ concept (half-portions of every plate). It prides itself on local produce cooked to perfection, stunning presentation and top-drawer service.

Unusually, it is located on the hotel’s lower-ground floor (‘basement’ sounds rather seedy). I am not keen on windowless dining, but it was warm and inviting after stepping in from the bitter chill outside.

Brown, orange and beige tones dominate, with simple place settings on the plain wooden tables and plenty of glass features and strategically-placed spotlights.

Our welcome was also glowing, with cloakroom tickets swiftly dispensed, smooth guidance to our table and friendly, efficient explanation of the menus. 

However, after this point, the service became a little unsteady. Having ordered drinks, the wait almost reached the awkward point of wondering if they’d forgotten.

Fortunately, it was only almost; and my Punto Final Malbec Classico Mendoza 2009 (175ml 6.95, bottle 27.50) and my dining companion’s Heartland Stickleback Red 2008 (175ml £5.65, bottle 22.50) were superb representations of the extensive wine list.

A bread basket appeared some time after placing our orders, which we took as the sign of a leisurely evening ahead.

But unfortunately, our starters followed speedily. Our side plates were still in front of us – and I even had a piece of bread in my hand – but the waiter appeared keen to deposit our new plates, so we moved them, feeling flustered. 

I had opted for two dishes from the grazing menu (instead of one a la carte starter), the first of which was roast duck liver (£9).

Served on a bed of orange-braised chicory and adorned with caramelised walnuts and anise-marinated raisins, the flavours were perfectly balanced and the liver indescribably tender.

My second grazing dish was pan-fried scallops and belly pork. The shellfish was flawless, set off by a refreshing ginger and apple purée and a silky fennel cream sauce.

The proportions, however, were less effectively considered. I understand the concept of the grazing menu and enjoy delicate servings – but, considering the £8.50 price tag, I found this disappointing.

Rather than the advertised ‘scallops’, there was one small, halved scallop. The softly smoky flavour of belly pork was vaguely present, but the meat itself was not identifiable as such, resembling instead an aggressively-fried, tiny rectangle of pancetta.

There was no shortage of substance in my dining partner’s full starter, assiette of pork (£11), which comprised ballotine of ham hock with piccalilli; ham and leek soup with cheese foam; and faggot with pomme purée and pork jus.

The highlight of this stunning trio was the soup, the distinct flavours of which were mind-blowing.

My main was fillet of sea bass (£22.50), served on braised lettuce and wild mushrooms, with sage gnocchi, a soft boiled quail egg, truffle and red wine sauce.

The flesh of the fish boasted wonderful texture and seasoning, while the wild mushrooms and lightly-breaded gnocchi were superb, with an incredible depth of flavour.

Sadly, the truffle was undetectable in my serving. I also felt that the fish skin lacked crispness and the quail egg was not runny, as I’d hoped.

My partner opted for Cumbria sirloin of beef (£25.50), served with slivers of ox tongue, sautéed snails, roasted shallots, horseradish pomme purée, Madeira sauce and smoked garlic velouté.

Delicately presented in a row, the three segments of rare meat were well-matched by the dish’s other elements, of which the flavoursome tongue and snails attracted most praise.

On the critical side, it was lukewarm, suggesting a delay in leaving the kitchen.

For dessert we shared a caramel and cardamom parfait (£8.50), which was marvellous. A disc of chocolate mousse topped with chewy nougatine was partnered by a shot glass of foamy, caramel sweetness, lent warmth by the gentle spice of cardamom.

The service dipped again in the second half, as a glass of wine was forgotten; and we also found it disappointing throughout that our waiters didn’t know which dishes each of us had ordered.

In summary, I admit that my observations are peppered with nitpicks, rather than major concerns.

But Abode is clearly a place where detail matters. And, for that reason, small errors stand out more than they might elsewhere.

This is especially true when the a la carte prices are some of Manchester’s highest. Our bill was £123, including an automatic 12% service charge (not compulsory, but who wants to get into the awkward business of refusal?). 

Consistency is the greatest stumbling block for many restaurants – particularly in Manchester, where Michelin-standard meals are certainly served, but rarely twice in a row at the same venue.

And if bad habits become ingrained, the chance increases of them arising when an inspector or national critic drops in.

But when Abode is on form, it is undeniably superb – and it offers some of the best-value deals in town, including the seasonal Christmas menu (three courses £24.95).

If you have any money left after your shopping, that is…

>> Michael Caines at Abode, 107 Piccadilly, M1 2DB (0161 200 5678, michaelcaines.com/restaurants/manchester).