CityLife

Croma

Croma

Croma
Chorlton
July 2010

Cuisine: Italian (pizzeria)
Average three-course cost: £18

Overall: 4/5
Decor: 4/5, Service: 3/5, Food: 4/5

Croma arrived in the middle of Manchester’s Italian dining scene a decade ago and has since bred across the city and as far afield as the States.

I visited the Chorlton branch, which opened in 2005 and followed the original city centre venue which was opened on Clarence Street in 2000.

The city’s Croma trio was completed in 2007 with the Prestwich restaurant.

After ten years serving gourmet pizza in sophisticated modern venues Croma has developed a sound reputation as a good value choice, for all occasions.

As a Chorlton resident myself, I know it as a staple option for friends who will quickly pick it for a work night out or birthday treat.

But do loyal customers return out of habit or is the pizza place still dishing up the goods?

The enticingly-lit Chorlton venue lures diners from a prominent position on the corner of Wilbraham Road, with a terrace along the curved glass front which shows off the reassuringly full tables inside.

Décor is both modern and rustic, with exposed ceiling beams, stone floors and an impressive fireplace. Spotlights kindly light the tables from above, creating a sultry atmosphere and giving just enough light.

Simple yellow flowers on each table caught our eye when we visited on a predictably busy Friday night, when families and work do’s mingled with discerning locals and romantic diners.

It seems to be all about good timing to bag a table on a weekend because you can’t book for parties of less than six people.

The system is first come, first served and, while I guess this keeps things moving for busy bosses, without any real waiting area the hanging about by the bar could be irritating.

There were no tables when we arrived but our timing was apparently pretty good as no sooner had we taken a number and ordered drinks at the bar than our table was ready.

The bill for drinks followed us to our table without any need for fussing with change and what could have been an inconvenience was an efficiently-run system and we were whisked to a table by a friendly manager.

The restaurant is large, with an airy conservatory which overlooks the garden and certainly whenever I have seen it, it has been graced with parties.

At our table and among chilled-out chatter we saw a menu dominated by pizzas along with starters, salads and a small baked pasta section.

If you look more closely you see the pizzas’ toppings are unusual and varied, with global options to suit all tastes.

An English breakfast theme with bacon, egg and sausage tops the Inglese (£6.75) or you can try the Indian-influenced Tandoori Chicken (£7.45) among the 20 choices.

There is also a good selection of wines by the glass, as well as  cocktails from £4.95, and our Italian waiter brought us a moreish and refreshing Frascati Superiore (£16.95) to complement our meal choices.

We picked at marinated olives (£2.40) and I started with the Garlic Prawns (£4.95) – cooked in Tabasco, Worcester sauce and white wine, with spinach and red onions and Italian bread.

The three fat prawns required patient shelling but it was worth it for the smack of taste and texture from the meat dunked in the infused sauce which, with a good squeeze of lemon, was both spicy and fresh. The Tabasco was a great addition.

Over the table was Tuna And Black Olive pate (£3.95) – simple and healthy, with rocket and more of that olive bread – a bread tasty enough not to need the butter which accompanied.

We also ordered dough balls (£1.95) which I think are a little overrated unless ordered with garlic butter, as we did.

It was pizzas for the mains and mine was from the specials menu – Fontina cheese with caramelised red onion, panchetta, thyme and tomato (£6.75).

From a massive cheese fan, this Italian type was rich and delicious and oozed perfectly with the sweet onion, but the panchetta portioning was skimpy and I would like to have see thicker tomato across the base – a personal preference?

My other half opted for Chorizo Piccante (£7.15) – with chorizo, hot green peppers, jalapenos, green chillies, mozzarella and tomato – spicy enough to satisfy him but my more sensitive mouth couldn’t handle a slice.

To finish, the Banoffee Mess (£4.95) with banana, ginger biscuit pieces, whipped cream, meringue and toffee sauce.

This tasted like the banana was infused throughout the dish and was stunning.