CityLife

Felicini

Felicini

Felicini
Didsbury
May 2010

Cuisine: Italian
Average three-course cost: £20

Overall: 3/5
Decor: 3/5, Service: 3/5, Food: 3/5

The recent bloom of Italian restaurants in the city centre has echoed in suburban areas, with Didsbury no exception – albeit mainly in chain format. Emerging from the embers of Est Est Est, the moody sophistication of Gusto has proven popular; as has the bright, cheery approach of Zizzi.

Further along Wilmslow Road, older model Felicini falls somewhere between these two tones. Established in 2003, the chain has just seven outlets (among them Manchester city centre and Wilmslow), so isn’t quite of the 300-strong Pizza Express ilk – perhaps explaining its warmer character.

Its orange-and-black branding is diluted with plenty of glass, chrome and leather, and it aims to be true to its Mediterranean roots; an aspiration certainly in evidence on our visit, with the patio doors flung open to the evening air.

Our arrival was slightly marred by our table not being ready… which was still not ready 25 minutes later. The lack of apology was also a little unsettling. We put this down to staff being unprepared for the unusually summery Saturday night rush and took it in our stride – but had it been a special occasion or group meal, it would have been a disappointing start.

However, the wait did give us time to first unwind in the sleek bar area. The selection of bottled beers includes Moretti (£3.20, also on draught), Peroni Nastro Azzuro (£3.25) and Old Speckled Hen (£4); while the narrow-yet-flexible wine list is entirely available by glass, carafe or bottle. We ordered a carafe of chianti DOCG (£12.30), light enough to suit the weather, with classic cherry and plum notes.

Once shown to our table, the service was friendly and efficient without being fussy – the best kind.

We began with a starter portion of spaghetti carbonara (£6.25), creamy yet not cloying, with a perfectly-poached soft egg and crisp pancetta.

The baby pear and dolcelatte salad (£5.95) required a hunt for the star ingredients under a forest of watercress – but, once these were located, the dish was well-balanced, its sweet-and-salt flavours complemented by smoky caramelised walnuts and a mustard and honey dressing.

Then came pizzas (£8.50). A shortage of ingredients meant that we both ended up opting for a Fiorentina – but it was a pleasant surprise that, despite other disorganisations, the kitchen was taking time to proportion dishes attractively. Egg (with superbly runny yolk), spinach, black olives, mozzarella and tomato topped a base that was light and well-seasoned.

Other main courses on offer include mussels (£10.25), duck breast (£14.95), steak (£15.50) and a variety of pasta, risotto and salad; followed by traditional desserts such as tiramisu and ice cream.

It's no spectacular destination, but as a neighbourhood restaurant, Felicini is pleasingly dependable – even boasting an offers-laden mailing list.

Felicini - 751 Wilmslow Road, Didsbury, M20 6RN (0161 445 2055 or www.felicini.co.uk).