CityLife

Ning

Ning

Ning
Northern Quarter
October 2009

Average three-course cost: £20

Overall: 4/5
Decor: 4/5, Service: 4/5, Food: 4/5

PITY the Tories – they are in a right old pickle.

All but the most boisterous optimists are forecasting David Cameron to carry Samantha over the threshold of Number 10 at some point next year.

On the other hand, shadow ministers to grassroots activists have been threatened on pain of death to wear no expression other than heart-felt contrition and deep humility.

In what was likely to be their last mass gathering before a general election, delegates in Manchester were warned against distasteful displays of wild, pre-emptive celebration.

Champagne was off the wine list (at least for some). Coarse sackcloth replaced the traditional tweed and twinsets.

Enterprising

Fortunate then, that we were able to observe a splinter group of delegates when we went to review Ning.

The Malaysian-themed restaurant has been in business for three years and is now an essential stopping-off point for any visitor to the city’s Northern Quarter.

If there is a new Thatcherist boom, co-owners Norman Musa, the culinary brains behind the venture, and Andy Spracklen, a business consultant during the day, are well positioned to ride the wave.

Not content with just a restaurant, the enterprising pair have quickly expanded into related areas of catering and running a cookery school.

Now a cookbook with blow-by-blow instructions on creating delicious meals on the menu has been launched, following the likes of established national chains such as Wagamama.

Many influences

We dine in the early evening but there is a steady flow of customers.

The first six delegates through the door gaze longingly at the wines (a small, inexpensive list fits in with the restaurant’s unfussy philosophy), before ordering a more modest round of beers.

The cocktails and mixers included an exotic-sounding hibiscus-flavoured spritzer. I chose a non-alcoholic rose-syrup-flavoured drink which tasted rather potently of Turkish Delight.

Norman, a self-taught chef who has imported recipes learned from his homeland, has recently been nominated for the chef of the year award in the city’s Food and Drink Awards.

As one of the major trading hubs for east Asia, Malaysian cuisine draws on many influences from the regions.

The menu reflects this diversity; borrowing from neighbouring countries such as China and Indonesia. Many of the ingredients are familiar to fans of Thai food: coconut milk, galangal, sweet basil, and ground peanuts.

Intense

I ordered chicken murtabak, minced chicken, onion and potato in a hardened pancakes deep fried to the consistency of filo pastry. Unlike an Indian samosa, the dish was surprisingly light and had a subtle aniseedy flavour.

My other half chose spiced calamari, coated in a light pepper batter and served on a bed of crisp, shredded lettuce and with a sweet chilli sauce.

For mains, I chose a traditional Malaysian rendang beef stew – it was a dark reduced curry made of coconut milk, chilli, turmeric and lemongrass. Although the accompanying beef was slowly-simmered, the strips of steak were still slightly chewier than I would have liked but was manageable and the intense sauce made up for this.

My wife’s Kuey Teow Goreng was a glutenous explosion of thick noodles, bean sprouts, and chicken, wok-fried chow mien-style. It was served with a mound of chillies, sliced carrot and spring onions.

The Malay-style rice was blended with coconut milk and spices, leaving a pleasant liquorice aftertaste, and the home-made peanut sauce was served warm and blended just enough so that a slight crunch could still be enjoyed.

We were too full for dessert. On offer were traditional deep-fried banana fritters and seri kaya custard cake, as well as the obligatory ice creams and sorbets.

Honest and unaffected

The Tories too seemed to enjoy their meal and drifted off in the direction of one of the karaoke fight clubs at the top end of Oldham Street. The distant, strained sounds of Freddie Mercury are soon heard.

As mentioned, the restaurant is relaxed and good-value. Starters are priced between £5-6 and mains £9-13, although there are a number of set deals to choose from. The restaurant also does takeouts, with 20pc off menu prices for collection.

Inside, the décor is uber-modern – all exposed brickwork, trendy wallpaper and dark furniture, and voile – without being pretentious. The waiting area, with its fishtank and crazed jumble of lampshades, adds a slight quirkiness.

My only complaint was the noticeable drop in temperature whenever the glazed double-doors were opened – fine during the summer but rather discomforting as the colder weather approaches.

What I like about Ning is that the food is honest and unaffected. It make you wonder why there aren’t more stylish, friendly but relatively cheap restaurants in the city centre.

I applaud the ambition of the Norman and Andy (expect to see Ning stir-in sauces and branded utensils very soon) – but just hope the restaurant can continue its success while avoiding the pitfalls of corporate blandness.

Ning
Oldham Street, M4 1LJ
0161 238 9088
(Closed Monday, not open for lunch)