CityLife

White Horse

White Horse, Helmshore

A LOT of people hate the term ‘gastropub’. They think it makes a traditional hostelry sound pretentious.

I really can’t see what their problem is; at least it still has the term ‘pub’ in the title, suggesting a strong link to our tradition of serving good beer in a convivial atmosphere.

Nowadays, pubs with foodie aspirations are increasingly calling themselves ‘bar and restaurant’. As well as giving the impression that we have gone all continental, it implies you won’t really be welcome there if all you want is a pint.

Fortunately, the White Horse isn’t like that. 

Despite the ‘bar and restaurant’ tag, it still has the look and feel of a pub.

Terrifically summery

When I arrived, there was a bevy of cheerful locals chatting over the real ales – Copper Dragon’s terrifically summery Golden Pippin, Moorhouses Pride Of Pendle, Timothy Taylor’s Landlord and Davenports’ Export Bitter – at the bar or in the terraced beer garden round the back. 

Meanwhile, in the partitioned dining area, with its striking views of the green Rossendale hills, others were tucking into some of the best food I’ve eaten at a ‘pub’ this year.

I homed in straight away on the Sunday set menu with 15 choices over three courses for £16.95.

The homemade piccalilli with my ham, chicken and foie gras terrine was to die for and my companion’s smoked haddock and Lancashire cheese fishcake successfully found a way to marry two intense flavours.

Glorious white chocolate

My shoulder of Helmshore lamb with potatoes roasted in dripping, a light Yorkshire and some big tasting veg was what Sunday lunch was made for. 

Opposite was a good chunk of salmon on top of olive and basil potato. Desserts included a glorious white chocolate and Baileys crème brulee.

Children aren’t excluded from the culinary experience either. For £7.50 you get three courses that chef obviously also takes pride in: melon and strawberries or soup; homemade sausages (plain pork, pork and apple, chicken and black pudding) with mash and a mini Yorkshire; and good-quality ice cream or bread and butter pudding.

One of the best value kids’ offerings I’ve come across in a long time.
If only all ‘pubs’ were like this.

White Horse, Helmshore Road, Helmshore, BB4 4LU (01706 213873).