CityLife

Crown & Anchor

I TEND to worry when I see a traditional pub chain ‘moving with the times’.

So I’m not completely sold on the refurbishment of the Crown and Anchor, just off Exchange Square.

It has been transformed from Holt’s usual spit and sawdust, with a lot of spit and polish, into something more akin to a coffee bar or eaterie you’d find on the Continent.

There are comfy mocca-coloured sofas, café-style tables on the pavement and a snorting coffee machine that probably creates more froth during the day than beer flowing from hand pumps.

Traditions survive

But I suppose commercially it fits into the area, next to swish Selfridges and a contrast to the almost Disneyfied traditionalism of The Old Wellington Inn and Sinclairs Oyster Bar next door. 

However, some traditions still survive. They continue to serve mild here as well as Holt’s bitter – though mine was a little on the chilled side – and the Cheetham Hill brewer’s own lagers, Crystal and stronger brew Diamond.

I love their range of bottled ales – especially the honey-tinged Humdinger – and you can get three for £5, which is getting on for supermarket prices.

And pricing is something Joseph Holt is keenly aware of. Last week, the brewer announced it would not pass on the Budget’s alcohol duty rise, and the food is good value too, with special offers from Monday to Wednesday.

Ticked all the boxes

I can vouch for the 8oz gammon and egg with veg (£7.45), a good square meal which came on a big square plate and ticked all the boxes.

A few of the choices were not available as the menu is about to change – including the lamb tagine, which I fancied – but there is still a wide selection of traditional British food, Med staples, lighter snacks and burgers.

My companion said his BBQ burger with chips and salad (£6.25) was almost to Gourmet Burger Kitchen standard.

Civilised kid-friendly spot

There is a children’s selection, with healthy options, and the pub would be a good lunchtime stop-off for families in search of a civilised, kid-friendly spot during a city day out.

I suppose that is one thing at least the posh Crown and Anchor has over Holt’s more traditional ‘old man’s pubs’.

The Crown And Anchor, 4-8 Cateaton Street, Manchester, M3 1SQ (joseph-holt.com)

Tweet