CityLife

Fox And Barrel

Fox And Barrel

THE large companies which own many of our pubs come in for much criticism from landlords, interest groups and drinkers (as well as this column). So it is great to see one owned by one of the biggest, Punch Taverns, defying the usual track record of dull drink offerings and average food.

The Fox And Barrel re-opened last June after a £200,000 refurbishment. It is set in Cheshire’s green countryside to the west of the M6 and makes for an ideal stopping-off point after a day tramping the gentle paths of Delamere Forest.

The revamp has kept many of the traditional features of the big old pub, including a huge fireplace that houses a throne.

Kings of this empire are convivial Gary Kidd and his business partner, Richard Cotterill, who is in charge of the kitchen.

Cuisine

The key to the Fox And Barrel’s success is that it is not a Punch-managed house. Gary and Richard must buy their beer from the company but they can run their pub how they see fit and the accent is definitely on cuisine.

Much of that high-quality food is served in the wood-panelled restaurant at the rear but on our Mother’s Day visit it was unsurprisingly overflowing, so we dived on to a cosy table in the bar.

The menu, which changes daily, has some wonderfully inventive food. The honoured mum of our party chose one of the most expensive dishes: pan fried sea bass fillet with crab and chorizo linguine (£13.95). The lightly cooked fish burst with flavour and the chorizo chunks and crab added beautiful ballast to the pasta.

My spicy salmon fishcakes (£8.75), the size of saucers, were enhanced by a wasabi mayonnaise with just the right level of heat so as not dent the flavour of the moist flaky fish.

There is also a kids’ menu and I would recommend the children’s Sunday roast dinner (£5.95) with Yorkshire puddings the size of an eight-year-old’s head.

Pudding prize

Desserts (£5.75) were excellent, with a sweet pecan pie – accentuated by the accompanying bitter coffee cream – taking the pudding prize. But the beer offering – despite Punch’s involvement – is pretty good, too.

They have three or four real ales: Deuchars and guests Brains’ Bread Of Heaven and Davenports Spring Fever were on during my visit. All in all, a pub very definitely punching above its weight.