CityLife

The Angel

Angel

November 2008

WE all love a maverick in charge of a pub. The pubcos seem to have seen off many a personality landlord but there are freehouses where characters remain, twinkling with originality.

One such place is The Angel, where chef/proprietor/landlord Robert Owen Brown (pictured) is doing a roaring trade despite the downturn, with a mixture of good beers – including brews from a number of micros – and even better food, served by knowledgeable, friendly staff.

Ever since he made his name at The Bridge in Manchester’s Bridge Street, his name has been synonymous with quirky takes on northern hearty grub made with fresh seasonal ingredients – and if it is game, he is most likely to have dispatched it himself.

Robert also likes to disseminate his expertise in this area, too.

He runs sea fishing trips from the pub and will prepare your catch at the end of the day and is also organising clay pigeon shoots, though I don’ t suppose there is anything for the pot after that.

One incredibly popular extra at the refurbished Beer House on Angel Street, off Rochdale Road, is Robert’s regular Gourmet Game Evenings.

After an introduction from the man himself, diners sit down at the same time to enjoy six previously secret courses, with matching wine and beer, for a well-priced £38.

Quirky

The pub, cosy and quirky, was decked out with a stuffed hare here, a brace of pheasants there, and a moth-eaten woodcock on a shelf – no prizes for guessing what was on the menu then.

The first course was a surprise, though, grey squirrel pasty matched with Angel Beer – brewed exclusively for the pub by Flintshire outfit Facers.

The full-bodied beer was well matched with the tasty squirrel – unsurprisingly very lean considering their work rate – which to me taste rabbity and lightly sweet.

We then ate our way through five more inventive courses - rabbit and dry sherry soup; pan-fried pigeon breast with black pudding and apple; potted mallard with forced rhubarb and loin of venison with chocolaty red cabbage. Brilliant combinations, though the matched wines frankly weren’t up to much.

We came back to beer with dessert. The Angel chocolate terrine, a luxurious slab of pate-thick sweetness, was superbly, eye-openingly matched with a Cusquena Dark Beer, an intense, malty black lager.

That evening there was no heating in the pub – or credit card facilities, so bring cash – but Robert’s beer and food made up for those oversights. After all, he is a maverick.

The Angel, 6 Angel Street, Manchester, M4 4BQ (0161 866 4786, theangelmanchester.co.uk).