CityLife

Battle of the Italians: San Carlo v Rosso

Rosso's Vitello Milanese

Inspired by the match between Manchester United and Italian giants AC Milan this week (March 10, 2010), Dianne Bourne looks at how Manchester’s own Italian heavyweights measure up – celeb-friendly restaurant San Carlo and young upstart Rosso.

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There's no escaping the fact that Manchester has gone Italian crazy. Every new restaurant that opens seems to be preparing regulation pasta and pizza fare these days. But, until now, no venue has come close to taking the crown from the King of Manchester’s Italian scene – San Carlo.

For while San Carlo has reigned supreme as the busiest restaurant in town, with regular visits from celebrities and footballers at one end of King Street, it’s now facing a rival at the very other end of the same street in the form of Rosso – co-owned by United star Rio Ferdinand no less.

In fact, since Rosso launched, celebrities have been spoilt for choice dashing between the two Italian eateries. Manchester City boss Roberto Mancini is even believed to have spent Valentine’s Day lunch in San Carlo, while heading to Rosso for his dinner – in order not to offend either establishment.

So, with the giants of Italian football, AC Milan, heading here tonight to face Manchester United, we decided to do a little pitch battle of our own – between the might of San Carlo and newcomer Rosso.

To make it a level playing field, we dined on the same day of the week at the same time and with the same dishes.

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ROSSO

Style: Serious sophistication in cool greys and bright splashes of red. The restaurant name is believed to be a nod to co-owner, Reds defender Rio Ferdinand. Even monochrome portraits of Leonardo Da Vinci come complete with United scarfs.
Slogan: ‘Simplicity is the Ultimate Sophistication’ – borrowed from Leonardo Da Vinci, who seems to be a bit of an inspiration here.
The best table: It’s got to be one of the grey leather booths that give the best views of all the action in the main restaurant. To our delight, and without even asking, we are whisked to the prime booth at the far end.
Is my waiter Italian? Yes, he’s Vicenzo and from Naples.
Do they do garlic bread? Well yes, but it’s called ‘Foccacia con aglio del pomodorio’ just to confuse you, and costs £4.95
Will they cope with my diva demand? I say I don't like tomato sauce on my pizza – just with parma ham and cheese. ‘Si, Si, of course’ trills Vicenzo without a flinch. Harrumph, not a chink in his smooth Italian armour. And when said ‘pizza bianca’ arrives, it is completely delicious.
How's the vino? It’s got to be a nice spot of chianti. But it's pretty expensive at £8.25 for a small glass, but almost worth it – smooth, rich and very drinkable.
Any celebs? City boss Roberto Mancini, may have practically made his home here, but we’ve managed to pick a night, a Wednesday evening, when he's not in. I have to make do instead with United footballer Ji-Sung Park. Since opening the restaurant has boasted a fair number of A-listers though – the likes of Hollywood star Billy Zane, Gavin and Stacey’s James Corden and the ubiquitous ex-WAG Nancy Dell'Ollio.
Value for money? Three courses, with a glass of chianti each = £58.30.

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SAN CARLO

Style: Huge piazzo that’s always buzzing – even on midweek afternoons. Guests cram in to enjoy the atmosphere in the simple but chic white restaurant complete with red chairs and black leather booths and huge mirrored wall to make sure you catch a glimpse of everybody else. Oh, and in case you weren’t aware of what a celebhaunt this is, framed photos of all their A-list guests fill the walls.
Slogan: ‘Authentic Italian Food’. The chain was established in 1982 by Italian Carlo diStefano, with the current Manchester site opened in 2004 and run by his family.
The best table: The black leather booths at San Carlo are legendary – and you haven’t a hope of getting one unless you're a regular, know the boss very well or get extremely lucky. Needless to say, we are plonked in the middle of the table melee.
Is my waiter Italian? Just a bit! We’re attended to by the boss, and son of the San Carlo empire, Marcello diStefano. He’s the picture of warm geniality – although it’s fair to say some of the other waiting staff are a little sterner.
Do they do garlic bread? Yep – like a giant pizza with tomato for £4.20
Will they cope with my diva demand? Marcello couldn’t be more happy to whip up my pizza bianca demand of no tomato and just ham and cheese.
How's the vino? We opt for the house chianti – it’s OK but nowt special.
Any celebs? ex-Coronation Street star Tina O’Brien, pictured, is to one side, a Liverpool footballer to the other. They’­ve had a galaxy of stars through these doors over the years though, from Hollywood heavyweight Russell Crowe to music superstar Lionel Richie.
Value for money: Three courses with glass each of chianti = £53.85.

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THE RESULT

Antipasto:
At Rosso, my Zuppe Fagioli – ie pasta soup - is a little thin, but my sidekick's bruschetta is really yummy, crispy on the outside and moist within with a nice garlic hit amid the chunky tomato.
San Carlo’s bruschetta is rather disappointing and a bit too stiff, the pasta soup is pleasantly hearty though.
That bruschetta gives Rosso the early advantage – 1-0 to Rosso.

Secondi:
The pizza at Rosso is amazing – so light and fluffy it's almost like a giant pancake on my plate. The veal Milanese is pleasant but a little chewy – it comes with a nice splodge of tomato pasta too.
San Carlo’s pizza is good but not quite the same league as Rosso. But then comes the veal, which really has to be seen, and eaten, to be believed. Served on a giant plate and roughly the size of a football, if you halved said ball and lay it flat on a plate, that is. Tastes magnifico.
San Carlo’s veal puts it back in the game, 1-1.

Dolce:
I’ve long felt you can tell a good Italian restaurant by the standard of their tiramisu – the classic Italian dessert of cream and coffee sponge. Rosso’s is nice, but a little bland.
San Carlo pulls it out of the bag with an absolutely delicious tiramisu – just the right balance of cream, marsala and sponge.

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So, San Carlo clinches the win 2-1, but it’s been a closely fought contest. And Rosso is most definitely snapping at San Carlo’s heels.

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Do you agree? Give your own verdict, below...

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