CityLife

Winter warmers

February 5, 2010

THIS week I went to a tasting of ‘winter warmer’ wines organised by local wine merchant John Booth. Operating from his shop in Marple Bridge, John represents the kind of local retail presence that every area needs as a counterpoint to the three-for-a-tenner supermarket aisles. While round-the-corner outlets such as Thresher have found the marketplace too tough, merchants who offer customers in-store knowledge and source their own interesting wines are occupying a valuable niche. John based his selection, mainly reds, on the idea that people often prefer to drink fuller-bodied wines during the winter.

He said: “Red wine actually makes you feel warmer. We have all experienced that rosy glow from a glass of cabernet or merlot. That’s because tannic acid and histamines, among other compounds in red wine, actually raise your body temperature enough to give you a glow.” The rioja John chose was a good example of this. Vega Del Rayo Reserva 2005 (£7.95) has bright oaky fruit and acidity and would be great served with roast lamb or a casserole. Nieto Reserve Malbec 2008 from Argentina (£7.95) reveals its dry elegance slowly with perfumed scents of vanilla and blackberry. I think Chateau Pineraie Cahors Tradition 2005 (£9.75) represents exactly the type of wine that’s worth seeking out through an independent retailer. Classy wine from a highly-respected chateau, bottled at the vineyard and costing less than a tenner. It’s full of liquorice cherry flavours and there’s a great finesse to the finish. The vintage is one of the best available and this wine has enough tannins to suggest it’ll still be drinking well over the next few years.

Boutinot’s ‘Les Hautes Terrasses’, Gigondas 2007 (£13.95) is also drinking remarkably well. Although it may seem expensive this is the sort of wine with which to impress your dinner party guests. Despite its youth it comes across as a subtle, mature red with an intense structural depth. In that context it’s a bargain. The whites were both full-bodied affairs. Sepp Gruner Veltiner 2008 organic (£7.95) is made by Nikolaus Moser, one of a growing band of biodynamic growers in Austria. It’s the sort of refreshing fruity white which explains the increasing popularity of Austrian white wine. Unusually, it’s been achieved without adding any sulphur dioxide. Cuvee Phillipe 2005 (£9.95) is a faultless white Burgundy displaying an appropriate oakiness allayed by ripe chardonnay fruit. John Booth Wine is at 27 Low Lea Road, Marple Bridge, Stockport SK6 5AB. He is holding plenty of tastings over the next two months in Marple Bridge and Stockport.

For more information go to johnboothwines.co.uk.