CityLife

Wines (and beers) to accompany game

WHEN richly-coloured leaves fall to the ground and thoughts turn to autumn menus in restaurants across the land, I am always asked what wine you should bag to have with game. For a perfect match with pheasant, partridge and rabbit, try a glorious glass of burgundy from the world-famous wine region in eastern France.

I love the reds from the pinot noir grape, which have soft, berry-rich and spicy characters that complement the bold, warming flavours of game dishes. Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s most prestigious wine producers, is celebrating its 150th anniversary. To toast the home of fine wine, why not crack open a bottle of its Cote de Beaune-Villages 2007 (£10.99, Sainsbury’s).

From grapes grown in the Chorey-Les-Beaune and Ladoix vineyards (in Burgundy it’s all about the specific plot and terroir!), this young and fruity wine is a stunning combo with lightly-spiced partridge. If you’re lusting after a top-notch pinot, try the Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru 2002 (£21, Cambridge Wine Merchants, call 01223 568 989).

It’s a steep price, but serious wine and drinkers will be rewarded with an elegant tipple produced from grapes picked from selected 1er Cru vineyard sites throughout the Beaune region. There is the prize mouthful of velvety, berry-fruit flavours with a hint of vanilla – a perfect choice with roast venison.

Modest price

And on special offer is a wine created when north meets south in the Rhone Valley. Winemaker Perrin & Fils has taken syra grapes from the northern Rhone and blended them with grenache from the south to create this luscious Cote Rhone Nord Sud Syrah 2006 (£11 reduced from £16 until November 29, Marks & Spencer). Packed full of blackberry and red berry flavours, it’s delicious with game.

Thanks to some brilliant beer and game matches, lovers of light, caramel colours needn’t worry about being left out in the cold this winter. For a more modest price, try a bottle of St Hallett Gamekeeper’s Reserve 2008 Barossa Valley (£7.99, Waitrose). A classic blend of shiraz for pepper and spice, grenache for raspberry fruit and touriga nacional (a red grape variety often used in port) for its black fruit, this spicy and warming Australian red does what it says on the label and washes down a treat with game or gammon.

A glass of delicate Kasteel Cru lager (£1.99, 330ml, 5.2 per cent abv, Sainsbury’s) from the Alsace region in north west France, is a refreshing combination with pan-fried partridge. Lightly-kilned barley is fermented with sparkling wine yeast to give it a very fine bubble, and the beer’s delicate sweet flavours allow the gaminess of the partridge to break through. Surprisingly good.

Simple roast grouse works well with maltier beers (five to 7.5 per cent abv) as they share the same sweetness, and the hops complement the gaminess of the meat. Try to resist pouring Innis & Gunn Oak Aged Beer (£1.58, 33cl, 6.6 per cent abv, supermarkets nationwide) into a pint glass. Instead, serve this delicious Scottish beer in a quality glass and take comfort in the knowledge that country pursuits aren’t just a rich man’s game.