CityLife

New lease of life for the ever versatile Riesling

Jacob's Creek Steingarten Riesling 2002

RIESLING is Germany’s traditional ‘noble grape’, with the aficionados drooling over the whiff of petrol on the nose and its ability to pair with many different foods – oh, and never pronounce it Rye-sling in front of them!

Supermarket chain Aldi is making the most of that mooted versatility with its Riesling Goes With Anything brand.

It spells it out rather obviously on a label incorporating a cow, pig, chicken and fish standing on top of each other and claims its balance of sugar and acidity can handle spicy flavours as well as more delicate dishes.

Remember when Tesco’s shelves heaved with concept wines entitled Good With Fish and Old Git (squarely aimed at the codger market) – it gives that impression.

It’s a world away from other sickly, sticky German whites (rarely made riesling) at around this price – £3.79 – but as a proposed entry level to more serious German whites, it sucks.

Rather unfairly, I had tasted the Goes With Anything alongside a Jacob’s Creek riesling from the 2002 vintage. Not just any old riesling, though.

Steingarten Riesling is a comparatively rare wine, with a very small production (3,000-4,000 cases), only produced in exceptional vintages and capable of ageing and improving in bottle for a couple of decades.

The 2002 is the epitome of its classic signature style, displaying piercing lemon-lime fruit aroma with dry, minerally flavours and a long finish. Selfridge’s in Manchester stock it for – ouch – £17.99.

If Good With Anything smacks of desperation, what about macho wine appeal? Gallo, not my favourite mass-market winery by a long chalk, came up with a really odd new wine ‘concept’.

"Specifically targeted at males, Redwood Creek is built on the spirit of the great outdoors, and has been created by head winemaker Cal Dennison in celebration of his love for the wilds of Northern California."

For the lumberjack in your life, at an affordable £6.99 from Morrisons and Asda the Redwood Creek Cabernet Sauvignon is the best of the bunch with approachable oak and blueberry richness. The Merlot and Chardonnay are less impressive.

Innocent Bystander is a much more impressive brand, from the Yarra Valley in Victoria, Australia. The Chardonnay 2007 smells of lemons and figs while a creamy oak and pineapple finish lingers.

I also like the Pinot Noir 2008, which smells pleasantly mushroomy and has succulent berry fruit tastes. They each cost £9.99 from liberty wine.co.uk.

Oddbins have two lovely Chileans, good value at £6.99. Doña Dominga Old Vine Carbernet Sauvignon/ Carmenére 2008 is a light ruby-red summer quaffer with soft tannins and cherry flavours.
Doña Dominga Old Vine Chardonnay/Semillon 2008 is an intense tropical fruity white.

Also from Chile, a lovely summery, fruity sauvignon from Vina Ventisquero’s new cool climate venture close to the Pacific in Patacon. Tesco and Majestic stock Yali Winemaker’s Selection Wetland Sauvignon Blanc 2008 at £6.49. Pale lemon green in colour, it smells citrussy with clean mineral flavours.

Finally, a quite lovely bubbly to celebrate England’s inevitable against-the-odds Ashes triumph! The 2003 Vintage Champagne from Nicolas Feuillatte (Majestic, £29.99).

It smells beguilingly of honey and stewed apples and has a lovely biscuity taste.