CityLife

Don't take Rioja for granted...

Ribera del Duero

TAPAS Fantasticas, great name for a sexy wine event. The aim – to inject a ton of fiesta fun into the Manc summer and to remind us all not take Rioja for granted. Which we sometimes do.

In the brave new world of Spanish wine, where Ribero de Duero, Navarra, Albarino, Uncle Don Quixote de la Mancha et al jostle for attention, Rioja has to compete.

The 13 Rioja wineries exhibiting at this weekend’s Albert Square event should demonstrate the sheer range of styles beyond the traditional extra-oaky whites and bricky, almost meaty reds (without ignoring that traditionalist legacy, either).

I’ve sampled some of the wines likely to figure at the weekend, mostly from sizeable but quality-conscious producers, the reds and rose mainly from tempranillo – the noble red grape variety of Spain.

The grape’s name translates as ‘little early one’, a moniker that references its early ripening tendency, the spicy fruit seemingly made for the traditional oak ageing it so often receives to generate increased complexity and harmony.

Increasingly, there is a tendency in Rioja to ape the darker, more robust tempranillo blends of rival red region Ribera del Duero but classic Rioja still tends towards ruby in hue, medium-bodied and with more acid than harsh tannins.

Everyday drinking wines, part from yopung wineor joven, fall under the category of Crianza (aged for two years, at least six months of which is in oak) Reserva (three years, at least 12 months in oak) denotes more complex and concentrated wines, and Gran Reserva refers to the most intense wines, made only in the best years.

I started with a Reserva, the most approachable of the three reds, all from the 2001 vintage. Baron de Ley 7 Viñas Reserva Rioja (Tesco, £15.99) is a modern style with strong aromas of sweet black berries and spice.

The palate is full-bodied and has concentrated with well-integrated spicy, vanmilla-laden oak on the finish.

Berberana Viña Alarde Gran Reserva Rioja (Majestic, £11.99) smells equally attractive – vanilla and tar. It is smooth in the mouth, too, though ultimately lacks fruit concentration and falls short.

Gran Reservas

Marques de Caceres only produce their long-lived Gran Reservas in the finest vintages. Top parcels of fruit are singled-out in the knowledge that the wines will develop huge complexity over prolonged oak ageing.

Marques de Caceres Gran Reserva (Oddbins and Majestic, £17.99 to £19.99) is a dark, slightly spicy wine. The nose is complex with definite tobacco and burnt almonds there and oodles of vanilla oak.

It is surprisingly soft and fleshy but has the tannins for the long haul.

I love those cloudy Faustino bottles and the way different cuvees have Roman numerals.

It reminds me of long Spanish lunches spent in their company.

Faustino V Rosado 2008 (Wine Rack, Thresher, House of Fraser, £6.99-£7.99) is a vibrant pink 100 per cent tempranillo rose. I swear it smells of toffee apples. It certainly offers appealing strawberryish fruit with a hint of bitter cherry.

Very refreshing stuff, as is another tempranillo-driven Rioja pink, Campo Viejo Rosé, which costs £5.49 from Sainsbury’s, Asda and Thresher.

It is fermented at low temperatures to retain its freshness and is one of the few roses to retain it traditional cork instead of screwcap or synthetic. It smells herby and has lots of juicy, citrussy bite, so good food-matching potential.

The Campo Viejo Rose Cava is an old CityLife favourite. The Campo Viejo Bodega is situated in the heart of cava territory in Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, inland from Barcelona.

This pink is made from the little-known red grape variety Trepat, using the traditional champagne method, with the second fermentation taking place in bottle.

The resulting bubbly has a lovely red berry nose, a full texture and lingering finish (Thresher, £9.49).

To complete a Campo Viejo hat-trick of recommendations, a refreshing white fine with fish.

Campo Viejo Viura (Asda, Budgens, Somerfield and Londis, £5.49) is made from Spain’s indigenous white grape and has attractive cantaloup melon flavours.

Tapas Fantasticas, in Albert Square, Manchester. Saturday and Sunday, 11.30am-6pm. Free. Buy a tasting glass for £2 and receive six tokens to exchange for Rioja wines. Tapas and Rioja by the glass also available for purchase. For further details visit winesfromrioja.co.uk/tapasfantasticas.