CityLife

Evuna salutes Spain's noble grape - tempranillo

Evuna - Spanish specialists

TEMPRANILLO, under various names, is the noble red grape of Spain.

Even the arrival of numerous global varietals has failed to topple its supremacy and not just in Rioja, its heartland.

The grape’s name translates to "little early one," a moniker that references fruit’s early ripening tendency, the spicy fruit seemingly made for the traditional oak ageing it so often receives to generate increased complexity and harmony.

Increasingly there is a tendency in Rioja to ape the darker, nore robust tempranillo blends of rival red region Ribera del Duero, but classic Rioja still tends towards ruby in hue, medium-bodied and with more acid than harsh tannins.

Most intense wines

Everyday drinking wines fall under the category of "Crianza" (aged for two years, at least six months of which in oak) "Reserva" (three years, at least 12 months in oak) denotes more complex and concentrated wines, and "Gran Reserva" refers to the most intense wines, made only in the best years.

A recent tasting at Desansgate Spanish specialists Evuna showcased these various ‘quality levels’ of Rioja, after kicking off with a Joven, or young wine.

Melquior Joven (£12, shop not restaurant price) offers a vibrant dark berry colour and velvety, pure 100 per cent tempranillo fruit untouched by oak. Juicy and attractive.

Abando Crianza (£15) goes beyond the basic requirements for this style. Abando has been aged for 12 months in American, then three months in French oak, with the remainder being in the bottle. Ripe, spicy stuff with a deal of vanilla.

Cherries in the mouth

Vina Hermosa Reserva (£15) finishes long and deep, slowly revealing the complexity that comes from 19 months in French oak with the remainder in the bottle. Very floral on the nose with ripe cherries in the mouth.

The Hermosa Gran Reserva (£30) was a notch up, a deep crimson colour, elegant despite its abundance of spice.